Blog #24: What Would Dylan Do?

 

When I moved to NYC, I was only 17, filled with the biggest of dreams and hopes. I was living in what remains to  be my all time favorite neighborhood in the city, Greenwich Village. I loved nothing more than sitting in a cafe with a good coffee and writing in my  journal. 25 years later, this is still an activity I adore. Living on 5th Ave and 10th St, just a stones throw away from Washington Square Park, put me in an ideal location for my coffee sipping, people watching, unloading by pen ways. I soon came to find out that MacDougal Street, just on the other side of the park, was once a beatnik haven, teaming with all of the best. Apparently, Bob Dylan had made this neighborhood his home and was known for frequenting the places I am about to share with you. In fact, I recall Bleeker and MacDougal streets being called “The 4 Corners”, housing four of the most famous cafes, frequented by well known artists, musicians and writers from all backgrounds. I’d like to share three (plus a musical venue treat) of them with you today, 

Cafe Reggio

Cafe Reggio opened in 1927 and is known for serving the first cappuccino in New York City. A claim to fame indeed! In fact, they even have the original espresso machine (made in 1902) in the cafe, for all to see! It’s a magnificent little spot, covered in art from 16th century Italy. You will feel completely transported and forget where you are for a moment. While they do serve food, I would suggest going for, you guessed it, the cappuccino. And, even if you are not a writer, take a notebook with you, or a card for a special someone and see if you feel inspired while you linger in this place where almost 100 years of memories have been made. 

*I tried calling to see if they are still open during this time of pandemic and no answer. I hope and pray that if there has been a closure, that it is temporary.*

Cafe Reggio/ 119 MacDougal Street, Greenwich Village

Le Figaro Cafe

This iconic spot was open from 1957-2008 and was often visited by Jack Kerouac and of course, Bob Dylan. It was a melting pot of the Beatnik generation and the hippie culture that followed. Al Pacino could have been spotted in later years as well. I really loved their cappuccino mud pie. I’ve never had it, as good, since. While I personally never saw anyone famous there, I could feel the energy of those greats who had spent time and passed through, much like the feeling you get when you visit Hitsville, USA in Detroit, MI, where Motown recorded. Who knows, maybe it even helped my writing flow. I have some giant journals that got filled up with words in this space. The good news? It’s re-opening! While it will not look the same at all, there will be a nod to the old Le Figaro with framed photos and snapshots of the past. 

Figaro Cafe/ 186 Bleeker Street, Greenwich Village

Caffe Dante

It’s hard to find information on this lovely little cafe that once was, but all I know is that it was one of the best, and sat at one of my beloved four corners. It first opened in 1915 and was an integral part of the heartbeat of the community, ever since. I know that “the times, they are-a-changin’”….however, I sometimes have a hard time letting go. At least it’s still around, even thought it’s now a high end bar (the worlds best, or so they boast). When it first opened, it was a place where Italian immigrants would gather for an unpretentious espresso and over the next 40 years, neighbors and celebrities would pop in for their favorite caffeinated beverages. Me? I just loved taking my pen to paper over a piping hot beverage on a snowy day…it has forever left it’s mark on my heart. Perhaps the next time I visit NYC, I’ll go and visit the new “Dante” and “Figaro Cafe” and chat with the servers about what it was like in the 90’s…if they indulge me. Oh, and the coffee? It was truly some of the best that’s ever touched my lips.

Dante NYC/ 79-81 MacDougal Street, Greenwich Village

Cafe Wha?

Oh my goodness, the memories I’ve mad in this place!! The first time I ever tried a “sex on the beach” (the drink, the DRINK!) was at this establishment. I’m not sure why I remember that but  I guess I was new to the world of cocktails and the name made me giggle. In any case, while the drinks were good, it was the house band that was off the hook and kept us coming back, over and over again. God, the energy, the soul, the funk, the groove…you couldn’t leave there without being on a natural high. To this day, I love these small spaces underground with low ceilings, tiny tables and the greatest vibe. Greats such as Jimi Hendrix, Bruce Springsteen and, yes, Bob Dylan were known for playing at this iconic joint. I’m getting a little teary eyed, writing this blog, because the face of NYC has changed so drastically over the past year. There are obviously no events scheduled on their calendar. However, lets all hope and pray that these house bands can return, safely, by mid-year and continue delighting their audiences as they have for so many years prior. I just remember how we’d pop up form our chairs, with no room to move, bur we’d be dancing for hours in that same spot. It was impossible not to. The energy was palpable and the groove was infectious. The next time I order a “Sex on the Beach” will be the next time I visit Cafe Wha?. They will come back as they once were. I have complete faith. By the way, this started out as a garage that used to be a horse stable and in 1959, the owner laid down some broken marble and painted the walls black to open this famous little musical cafe. God, how I love NYC. 

Cafe Wha?/ 115 MacDougal Street, Greenwich Village

So, if you ever ask yourself, “What would Bob Dylan do?”, try hitting up some of these old haunts in their new incarnations and image the counterculture and the artists who thrived and maybe you’ll even hear some of their music, “blowin in the wind”……